Start by gently cleaning your mushrooms - I never rinse under water, just take a slightly damp paper towel and wipe off any visible dirt.

If you have chicken mushrooms, lucky you! Slice into long 1/2" strips one way then the other to get 1/2" size chunks of mushrooms. I wanted to taste the texture so I kept the pieces fairly large.

Chop your remaining mushrooms into a slightly smaller size.

Finely chop 1/4 of a small onion or a small shallot (doesn't need to be minced, but you don't want big chunks of onion in the ragout). Heat 1 tbsp olive oil over medium heat in a 12" skillet (ideally not nonstick - you want some fond to develop on the bottom of the pan for flavor) and add the onions, allowing to soften for 2-3 minutes.

Add the chicken mushrooms and use a wooden spoon to coat them in oil, then let them sit without stirring. The oil will be absorbed and the pan will be dry, but don't worry. Cook for about 8 minutes, allowing them to develop some browning.

Add the additional 1 tbsp of oil and the remaining mushrooms, stirring again to coat. Cook for an additional 5 minutes until the pan is completely dry and the additional mushrooms have wilted and reduced in size.

Add the cognac and white balsamic vinegar and toss with the mushrooms - be careful not to inhale near the pan right after adding! It should only take about a minute for the alcohol to evaporate.

Add the chicken broth and heavy cream, turn down to medium-low and cover, cooking for 10 minutes. Feel free to open it up and stir once or twice to make sure all the mushrooms have their turn simmering.

Remove the cover and taste the ragout - adding salt as necessary. I don't recommend salting until this point, as it will inhibit browning of the mushrooms in the initial stage and the chicken or vegetable broth is often very salty.