Last night I had the pleasure of enjoying a delightful meal at North Pond with an old friend. It was one of those rare ‘treat nights’ where I go for the tasting menu with wine pairings, the indulgent splurge, without stressing about the cost.
I’ve had just a few of those nights in my life – primarily, two meals at Next and one at Gramercy Tavern in NYC – and they are always memorable. Sharing this experience at North Pond with someone who appreciated it at the same level made it even better!
We started with a cocktail at my house – an Aperol and elderflower margarita.
Here’s a glance at the tasting menu at North Pond…
…and the wine pairings.
Course 1: Crab/Yuzu
Stone crab claw with Dungeness crab salad underneath, Kalamansi lime gelée and Yuzu crème brulée. This whole dish was a delightful interplay of salty and sweet – the crab, the gelée, the brulée – it all went perfectly together. It was paired with a sparkling Gamay wine called Turbullent; not too sweet and just the right amount of effervescence. A great way to start the meal (and one of my favorites of the night).
Course 2: Cauliflower/Apple
Cauliflower puree on the bottom, tempura-fried hen of the woods mushroom, black semolina gnocchi, kale-apple foam. If the first course was mainly about salty vs. sweet, I think this course spoke to texture – the soft puree with the crunchy mushroom tempura, the springy gnocchi, the airy foam. This was paired with a white wine from Rioja which, to be honest, was not my favorite – it had a very alcoholic nose almost like a sherry, and also tasted pretty acidic (if that’s the right word?). I always like trying new things, so it was still good to try – but I wouldn’t want another full glass.
Course 3: Sweetbreads/Fennel
Arborio-crusted veal sweetbreads, fennel and onion, glazed turnips, licorice and balsamic, grapes and almonds. I’ve never had sweetbreads before, so I was intrigued to try them…and they were great! Tasted pretty mild in general, and the texture was also nice – though I’m fairly sure anything that gets breaded and fried can’t really be bad 🙂 This dish had an interesting balance between very deep dark flavors (coming from the layers and variations on the licorice flavor – the fresh as well as long-cooked fennel, the licorice and balsamic sauce) and some bright, acidic notes from the grapes. This was paired with another white wine, an Altesse, that was more my style – some minerality and crispness.
Complimentary Intermezzo: Octopus/Cashew
Cashew butter with broccoli crumbs and charred octopus. This was a nice surprise for us from the chef, one of the dishes I’d noticed on the à la carte menu that sounded good. The cashew butter was rich and nutty and complemented the smoky octopus well. The broccoli crumbs lent a nice texture.
Course 4: Duck/Sweet Potato
Vanilla-scented sweet potato puree, maple-poached cranberries, steamed Chinese broccoli, black mochi and duck laniere (aka strip). The duck breast was cooked perfectly – it almost looked and tasted like a beef steak – and was very interesting paired with the ultra-sweet sweet potato puree and cranberries. This was paired with our only red wine of the night, a cabernet franc. Very nice overall.
Complimentary Palate Cleanser: Green Apple Sorbet
A light, refreshing bite with cold sorbet and crunchy granola prepared us for our last course.
Course 5: Chocolate/Pomegranate
Caramelized white chocolate namelaka (what I perceived as like a thick, creamy mousse/ganache type dessert – piped into a log across the plate), pistachio cake, blood orange sorbet, salted pistachios and pomegranate arils. Possibly my favorite dish of the night, the texture and flavor of the pistachio cake (almost like a financier) along with the very unusual but delicious namelaka was unexpected and satisfying. Our final pairing was a madeira, which I’ve never had before, but seemed like the perfect middle ground between a sherry and a port – the right amount of sweetness but not overwhelming to go along with dessert.
And that’s the end of our wonderful experience at North Pond. The food and wine were thoughtful and delicious, the service was attentive and seamless, and the restaurant itself (design and surroundings) is beautiful. While the tasting menu was pricey, I’d recommend it for a special occasion – and it’s always an option to do the à la carte menu, which while also expensive, certainly would make this more accessible for a more everyday meal (and I’ve heard their three-course brunch is a good value).
Michael Pecoraro says
Annie,
You did it again. I love your review and commentary. It makes me feel like i was at dinner with you. You have a way with words that is unparalleled. Not sure if this kind of place is my cup of tea so to speak, but I could tell you very much enjoyed it. Very nicely done. Take care,
Annie says
thanks!
Kristen says
I agree with your last commenter! Your analysis, photos, and description of that meal were so detailed and enticing that I felt like I was sitting there with you and Steve. Thanks for another great review. 🙂
Annie says
thanks! maybe you’ll go with me next time 😉